I wanted to try out some changes to the way I worked the decrease section at the top of the Burning Love hat; so I knit another, though this time in a baby size.
The changes were subtle, but they are an improvement.
I figured that it was worth writing down; and that since I had a very big size and a very small size, I should try to work out a few more in between. It's a slow process, this "writing down" business. I'm making progress, but I'm not quite there yet.
Once I reached the point where I needed to start decreasing for the top of my hat, I was on my own. Well, the book does have some charts for calf gussets on socks that I might have tried to employ (and it might have been wise to do so); but I just launched out and charted my own. I am not 100% satisfied with the results. There are a few spots I'd like to tweak. But I'm probably 95% satisfied.
There is a little bit of biasing going on. I may block it to see if that makes any difference. I got lots of practice crossing stitches, to the point where the maneuver is almost smooth and I feel as if I might be ready to take on a project that includes more than one basic pattern. It fits well enough, though 1/2 inch shorter would have been OK, too. The fabric is very elastic. Unstretched, the circumference around the bottom is about 19". I can pull it out to at least 24", though the texture starts to flatten out a bit when it's pulled that firmly.
The name of that little twisted stitch motif I was practicing is "Burning Love", so how could I resist it? (I'm not a big Elvis fan, but Mr S. most definitely is.) Besides, it's fairly simple as these things go, and I think it's very pretty. So I've started a hat.
I re-charted it in symbols I'm more familiar with, which really helped. It's still slow going, but I'm starting to get the swing of it.
A new book that I love: Twisted-Stitch Knitting: Traditional Patterns & Garments from the Styrian Enns Valley by Marie Erlbacher, published by Schoolhouse Press.
The book contains a small bit of history, instruction for the technique, 174 pattern stitches with photos and charts, and a number of sweater and sock patterns. It's the "stitch dictionary" aspect that appeals to me most. These are the type of small cable patterns often referred to as "Bavarian", worked with travelling/crossed stitches that are twisted by knitting into the back to give them a more raised or chiseled appearance. The book is a great resource.
You may wonder about the gloppy bits at the lower end and in the middle of my swatch. Well, I hate to admit it, but I did lose my place (more than once) on an 8 st, 4 row pattern repeat. The charts in the book are really fairly simple and straightforward, but employ a different system than I am used to reading; and the eye/brain/finger connections went askew a couple of times. It didn't help that I started late in the evening. Note to self: use Post-It tape to mark rows worked, even for short pattern repeats.
aside from an unlikely looking, not going to win any knitting prizes object, that is?
Well, it's a swatch from camp.
Down in the bottom part are some practice short rows. The important part about them for me is that they were worked by "knitting back backward". I, personally, do not have a figure that calls for bust darts, but if I did, this would be the way to go. And on my next heel I'm going to give this try, if only to reinforce the motions in my hands and head.
Just above that is a bit of practice with Norwegian Purl. I'm not sure I'll be switching over my purling style, but it's kind of nice to have done it, just to try something different.
At the top is about two hours worth of plugging away at double knitting with one yarn held in each hand. Not perfect, but definitely getting better. So maybe I should go ahead and make, oh, a potholder or something. Actually, I think it would be lovely to have a pair of double knit mittens, because they would be so warm. (Add to growing mental list of things to do.)
The set made with my birthday yarn is done. I am now officially coordinated, Yay!
The headband pattern is a freebie available here, but I haven't written up a proper pattern for the mitts.
So here is a really sketchy, and yet verbose, description of what I did:
First off, the ball band did not describe the yarn weight or give a suggested gauge. (on Ravelry it is described as Sport, and I would agree). The band did say to use Size 6 needles, so I automatically dropped to Size 4, which gave me a gauge of 6 sts per inch in stockinette. I used double points, but Magic Loop or 2 circs would do as well. How much yarn? Well I got both the mitts and headband out of a 250 yd skein with a fair bit left over
Cast on 32 sts and join to work in the round.
Work 20 rounds in k2, p2 rib.
At this point, stop and slip the little tube onto the top of your hand to make sure it fits closely yet stretches enough around the knuckles to be comfortable. If it is too tight for comfort, change to larger needles and keep going. If (not likely) it is too loose, start the whole thing over on smaller needles; because if it is too loose around the widest part of your hand it will be way to loose around your wrist.
Pick a knit rib to be the one that will grow into the thumb gusset. I picked one that was toward the center of one of my needles. Work up to that rib, place a marker, k1, M1, k1, place a second marker, finish the round.
Work the thumb gusset:
Rnds 1 & 2: work even in pattern (meaning knit the knit stitches including all stitches between the markers, and purl the purl stitches)
Rnd 3: work in pattern to the first marker and slip it. K1, M1, knit to one stitch before the second marker, M1, k1, slip the marker and complete round in pattern.
Repeat Rnds 1-3 until there are 17 sts between the markers.
Work 5 more rounds even in pattern (or to the length you want to the thumb opening).
Next round: work in pattern to the first marker, remove marker, k1, put the next 15 sts on waste yarn, k1, remove marker, finish round in pattern.
Work 8 more rounds in pattern (or as many as you like) and bind off in rib.
Put the 15 reserved stitches onto 3 dpns, join yarn and knit 4 rounds. Bind off.
Curse hole that appears where thumb meets body, and darn closed with yarn tail. Weave in other loose ends.
Rinse and repeat/make a second mitt just like the first.
A note on increases: you can M1 any way you like. I like a raised/lifted invisible increase of the kind Cat Bordhi calls LLinc and LRinc. If you aren't familar with these, she has a very good video here. Oddly, the title frames call it a lesson on paired decreases, but it really is on increases. Trust me.
